Super Duper Build problems

classic Classic list List threaded Threaded
13 messages Options
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Super Duper Build problems

mrclean77
Any help is appreciated. Got a DMM, but I'll be darned if I know what to do with it (I HAVE tested a 9v battery with it, lol).

-Used the Super Duper layout here.
-Used the wiring layout for the 2 footswitches
-Would not pass signal (when bypassed)
-Ch2 would work, but only when Ch1 was also engaged (even thought Ch 1 would still do nothing)

Poked and prodded. Became afraid I was going to throw it through the window and be on the couch. Decided to just start from scratch. New jacks, switches, everything but new knobs.

-This time I used a footswitch wiring layout I'm more familiar with:

1-circuit IN
2-to IN jack (T)
3-linked to 9
4-LED cathode
5-ground
6-linked to 1
7-circuit OUT
8-to OUT jack (T)
9-linked to 3

So I did this (layout label to what I used):

SW1-7 from board to SW1-7
SW1-5 from board to SW1-1
SW2-5 from board to SW2-1
Vol 2 to SW2-7

Same issues (almost). At least both sides were passing signal in bypass. Ch 2 sounds like a champ. Ch1 (engaged) passes signal (as opposed to completely dead), but the signal is very weak and nearly unaffected.

I tried to switch the in/out on Ch1, nothing.

I'm stumped and need another opinion as I almost always do something silly/simple (dumb) then can't see it right in front of my nose. REALLY suspecting this on this build since I made (pretty much) two identical builds and both present with eerily similar problems.

TIA (and I hope any of that made sense)
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

Surgeon
I've had a similar problem when I last built a double-effect (a ts-808 +SHO in one enclosure).

The problem was that all my grounds weren't connected together properly. Make sure you have continuity between ALL your ground connections. That time it happened to me, a 1'' wire between two points was all it took to solve the issue. My guess would be there's a ground somewhere that's not connected to all the others, probably one of your jacks...

Test it all with a DMM just to make sure, I'D bet that's the problem.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

mrclean77
Will do & report back...thank you, sir.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

otalgiafx
Also try swapping about the CH1 transistor (if they are socketed) as they  can get static zapped or solder fried quite easily.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

mrclean77
Switch or wiring problem...???

Ch 1 will pass signal on thru to Ch2, which still works great/as expected.

Ch1 engaged goes completely dead.

Checked and found all good ground connections.

Yanked the trannies, socketed, installed new ones...even flipped Ch1's around, just in case (got some very light crackle, but still no signal). Flipped it back around.

Continued to be whooped by this one.

Grr.


Oh, also - in my OP, I described swapping the circuit in/out connections to the switch, swapped 'em back before any of this.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

Vince
In reply to this post by mrclean77
This may not help much but I made the super duper yesterday and binned it within 10 minutes. The pops that ere mentioned on the thread were terrible. Some may be able to look past that but it annoyed the hell out of me. Also at max is was extremely noisy. But the pops make this totally unusable in a live situation.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

mrclean77
First build had some slight-to-mean pops. Current one is clean as a whistle, Ch1 is just unaware that it's supposed to be making sounds, haha.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

dodido
Well, you guys aren't missing much to be honest.

I used to love my SD2-in-1 and would tell people it was worth the extra money over a single SHO.  But the two big advantages I got from it were 1)  master volume, and 2)  I would set the first SHO at unity gain for a buffer, and still have an SHO left to get the SHO sounds.  This was back before there were resources for making your own pedals and even boutique pedals were kinda new.  

I don't think I ever used it as two honest SHO's.  An SHO gets stupid loud all by it's lonesome, so stacking two gets into silly volume territory in a hurry. If I'm going to stack, I prefer to use two things with different voices rather than just double up what I already have.   And yeah, it is super-noisy once you start using both, although I don't think that is the pedal itself so much as you get so much gain//volume it picks up everything.

If I were doing it today, I'd just build the SHO with a master volume.  Most of us have already built a simple booster/buffer so that takes care of what I used to use the other SHO for.  I suppose I might build a buffer into the pedal for convenience if I was feeling motivated.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

Jon Rep
Dodido,  That is what I have just done. Built the SHO but because of how loud it gets I added the Volume Pot and use it with my Big Muffs.  I am very impressed with what Sounds can be produced. A Great Boost Pedal.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

mrclean77
No arguments here, I love my SHO build(s)...I've done about a half dozen on vero and ten on pcb's...this one is going to a customer who is also snagging a klone build from me.....WHEN the super duper is done

I care nothing about a SD2n1 and agree the SHO can get start-a-war-with-the-neighbors loud, as-is...I love my amp too much to want to always have a 2n1 on board, haha
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

Milkit
I had a similar problem, just a week or two back, I had full effect on effected signal, but nothing in bypass!  Turns out I had a dodgy footswitch, fresh out of the bag!  The only investigative work I did was to swap the switch, my pedal works as desired now!  
It's better to have it & not need it, than to need it & not have it!
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

Galapagos
To revive this old thread, I thought I'd post some of the differences that I found between the Vexter version that I own, and the current layout at https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/01/zvex-super-duper-2-in-1.html

They are:
1) Master volume pot is B50k instead of A100k
2) LED resistors are 15k instead of 2.2k
3) 47uF power filter cap instead of 100uF
4) 9v  goes into a 1N5819 diode, its negative end goes to those LED resistors plus a 100R resistor -- then that 100R links up with the 5.1k resistors and power filter cap. (Currently those are all sharing the top row of the layout, but that's not how it is in my Vexter.)
5) The 100k resistor on the left side (first SHO) is instead a 47k to ground, and the other 100k doesn't exist at all. The negative side of the 10uF electrolytic goes straight out to lug 3 of the master volume pot. No resistor there.
6) The pair of 100nF caps are confirmed again to be 10nF for sure, which you already knew.
7) Footswitch wiring is just "different" altogether from the layout, and includes a 1k resistor on each. I could post pics and/or hand drawn diagram if you want.

I could also post my crappy hand drawn schematic if anyone wants to see it, but I'll have to double check it first. Pretty sure I'm interpreting this stuff correctly, but this is only my second attempt at deciphering a PCB so I can't promise perfection!

Thanks!
-Dan
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Super Duper Build problems

nonost
Ey Galapagos great info! Some pics would be awesome. I was trying to identify each component to make the pedal as close as possible to the original.

The electrolytic capacitors are USA/USR Nichicon series:

http://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/pdfs/e-usa_usr.pdf

The multilayer ceramic ones are Radial Leaded Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors for General Purposes series by Vishay:

http://www.vishay.com/docs/45171/kseries.pdf

We all know that transitor is a bs170p by Zetex, so the zener is the only I don't know from where it comes. I know that it doesn't take much importance in the overall sound, it's just curiosity.