Any help is appreciated. Got a DMM, but I'll be darned if I know what to do with it (I HAVE tested a 9v battery with it, lol).
-Used the Super Duper layout here.
-Used the wiring layout for the 2 footswitches
-Would not pass signal (when bypassed)
-Ch2 would work, but only when Ch1 was also engaged (even thought Ch 1 would still do nothing)
Poked and prodded. Became afraid I was going to throw it through the window and be on the couch. Decided to just start from scratch. New jacks, switches, everything but new knobs.
-This time I used a footswitch wiring layout I'm more familiar with:
2-to IN jack (T)
3-linked to 9
6-linked to 1
8-to OUT jack (T)
9-linked to 3
So I did this (layout label to what I used):
SW1-7 from board to SW1-7
SW1-5 from board to SW1-1
SW2-5 from board to SW2-1
Vol 2 to SW2-7
Same issues (almost). At least both sides were passing signal in bypass. Ch 2 sounds like a champ. Ch1 (engaged) passes signal (as opposed to completely dead), but the signal is very weak and nearly unaffected.
I tried to switch the in/out on Ch1, nothing.
I'm stumped and need another opinion as I almost always do something silly/simple (dumb) then can't see it right in front of my nose. REALLY suspecting this on this build since I made (pretty much) two identical builds and both present with eerily similar problems.
I've had a similar problem when I last built a double-effect (a ts-808 +SHO in one enclosure).
The problem was that all my grounds weren't connected together properly. Make sure you have continuity between ALL your ground connections. That time it happened to me, a 1'' wire between two points was all it took to solve the issue. My guess would be there's a ground somewhere that's not connected to all the others, probably one of your jacks...
Test it all with a DMM just to make sure, I'D bet that's the problem.
This may not help much but I made the super duper yesterday and binned it within 10 minutes. The pops that ere mentioned on the thread were terrible. Some may be able to look past that but it annoyed the hell out of me. Also at max is was extremely noisy. But the pops make this totally unusable in a live situation.
Dodido, That is what I have just done. Built the SHO but because of how loud it gets I added the Volume Pot and use it with my Big Muffs. I am very impressed with what Sounds can be produced. A Great Boost Pedal.
No arguments here, I love my SHO build(s)...I've done about a half dozen on vero and ten on pcb's...this one is going to a customer who is also snagging a klone build from me.....WHEN the super duper is done
I care nothing about a SD2n1 and agree the SHO can get start-a-war-with-the-neighbors loud, as-is...I love my amp too much to want to always have a 2n1 on board, haha
I had a similar problem, just a week or two back, I had full effect on effected signal, but nothing in bypass! Turns out I had a dodgy footswitch, fresh out of the bag! The only investigative work I did was to swap the switch, my pedal works as desired now!
It's better to have it & not need it, than to need it & not have it!
1) Master volume pot is B50k instead of A100k
2) LED resistors are 15k instead of 2.2k
3) 47uF power filter cap instead of 100uF
4) 9v goes into a 1N5819 diode, its negative end goes to those LED resistors plus a 100R resistor -- then that 100R links up with the 5.1k resistors and power filter cap. (Currently those are all sharing the top row of the layout, but that's not how it is in my Vexter.)
5) The 100k resistor on the left side (first SHO) is instead a 47k to ground, and the other 100k doesn't exist at all. The negative side of the 10uF electrolytic goes straight out to lug 3 of the master volume pot. No resistor there.
6) The pair of 100nF caps are confirmed again to be 10nF for sure, which you already knew.
7) Footswitch wiring is just "different" altogether from the layout, and includes a 1k resistor on each. I could post pics and/or hand drawn diagram if you want.
I could also post my crappy hand drawn schematic if anyone wants to see it, but I'll have to double check it first. Pretty sure I'm interpreting this stuff correctly, but this is only my second attempt at deciphering a PCB so I can't promise perfection!