As Jopn mentioned in the last post, the "Tails" version had some design's flaws to which Brian could not find a solution.
(This is a new version of Madbean's project. The resistor from Rate 3 has been changed to 22k, the one from D2 is now 33R and the 100K from TL062 pin 7 to VB has been removed)
I did an Ebay search for 2.2uF non-polarized caps and they're kind of pricey, even from China. What do you think would be an acceptable substitute? My first (crappy) thought was 2 1uF box caps + a 200nF box cap in parallel. Not sure if that would make a huge difference from an electrolytic cap, aside from being super-ugly.
Heath is like me, we're in the US. I'll check to see if I have any that are multilayer ceramics. I know I hsvr them up to 10uF. Also, I can't wait to build this either. I've been dreaming of a memory man for a long time, so this is awesome man.
I've been in the U.S. but I don't know anything about effects diy components availability over there (better than here for sure!).
I'm now in Italy, going to France next week and back in London (England) next year!
Brian said it sounds close to the DMM (as a PT2399 version could be) but there are no videos available yet.
Like everything else he designs, I bet it's good!
Ahh I was going to say, if you were in the US near me I'd take you out for a beer. But, I do hsvr good news. If the 2.2uF do not need to be electrolytics, there are 2.2uF multilayer ceramics. I checked my stock when I got home, and I've got a bunch, and they should be cheap too.
About those 2.2uf caps, do they absolutely have to be non-polarized? Can't we just use polarized caps and if so, how would they have to be orientated? I suspect the top 2.2uf positive towards the top TL062. How about that 2nd one?
Thanks anyway Rocket! A beer is always welcome! I think the second 2.2u cap should have the negative side connected to Depth 2. But don't take my word for it! I think there must be a reason why Brian used non-polar caps. Unfortunately my theoretical side is quite poor.
No problem man, let me know next time you're in/near NYC. And that goes for any of the guys here.
Btw, are we sure they're electorlytics? And I'm pretty sure no polarized electrolytics can be subbed with any non-polarized cap as long as it's the right value. If I'm right, I'd try the multilayer ceramics, cause they're teeny tiny, and that space looks like it could be a little tight.
In his file's B.O.M. it says 2.2uF NP Electrolytic but I think any of the same value would be ok.
I didn't leave much space for them on the board because I have some non-polar at home and I wanted the board to fit in a BB box.
I just ordered a bunch of 2.2uF non-polarized caps, while not cheap like a lot of the other caps we use, they're not too bad. I think I bought 25 or 50 for under $10USD. I'd have no problem getting a bunch and splitting it up for those who need them for this build. But, I did see some sellers that wanted a ridiculous amount of money for them, some guy wants $30USD for like 10 of them.
I scored one of the few prerelease ones and I want to mention that there's some issues with the design for the tails. If you're on the Madbean forum, you can look under the Build Reports section to see Jon Patton and I working on this.
For now, I would just build the true bypass version and wait for the updated schematic for the whatever tails fix Brian decides to implement.
It sounds fantastic though, much better than any of the other PT2399 delay's I've built.
Q: Why is a drummer like a scud missile?
A: Both are offensive and inaccurate.