Hey tvas22 - That looks like it should work. However you are stretching a 47pF cap over a long distance which it should make if it's silver mica - which would actually be a good idea! - but some ceramics might not make it.
Here is a smaller layout which avoids standing resistors, which a lot of folks prefer I guess it might be slightly more robust, although millions of Maxon pedals might disagree. :-) I also put the pot mounted parts on the board. You might want to check the voltages required to make sure the components you use don't fry. Seeing as the circuit uses a TL072 I guess you'll be ok with 50V but don't take my word for it.
I haven't built this so it obviously isn't verified. There may be mistakes. It looks ok to me though. :-)
I'm not the right person to ask, but I suspect it would depend on current rather than voltage and i doubt that the current draw would be massive. My guess is that stripboard would be ok but I would recommend checking with someone more knowledgable than me.
I really have no idea - the tank is a full sized reverb tank though, so even if you did build it into a pedal you would need to find somewhere to mount that.
I think it would be worth giving a go, though. It is just a solid state tank driver stage and a recovery stage, and then the wet signal is just blended back into the dry. I can't see why it wouldn't, in principle, work - if you run into impedance issues you could try playing around with buffers before or after.
Maybe, I’m really not sure if it would work but I think it might be fun to experiment. I installed a super hard on boost before the reverb which did help a little, and then there was another gain stage after it in the amp.
Honestly, I have no idea what the impedances are here - I actually ran into impedance issues, which is why I installed the boost/buffer before it. When I was trying to figure out the issue (huge volume drop, tone suck etc) I figured it was probably an impedance issue, and I spent a long time trying to calculate it (or find someone else that could help me to calculate it) and I didn’t end up getting anywhere.
I’m not sure if the dry signal ‘sees’ the 1M to ground or if it only ‘sees’ the 220k resistor. I tried bypassing the 220k and it made no difference to how the circuit functioned, however. That’s when I gave up and installed the buffer.
I think either way it is going to be an experiment. It’s quite a nice sounding reverb in the amp, so it might end up being decent. I also built the Wampler Faux Spring Reverb though, and that sounds nice through the front end (although it’s belton brick rather than spring).