2. Cut off a piece about the same length of the wire you'll be shielding.
3. Trim it to about 3/8 inch wide
4. Prepare the grounding wire by stripping just shy of 3/8 inch and wrap the bared wire with a piece of solder, then lay the prepared wired across the foil side of the tape near the top.
5. Fold the foil over the prepared ground wire, peel back the protective strip a bit
6. Use another small piece of foil tape to hold everything in place
At this point we have a ground wire wrapped with a piece of solder, sandwiched between the aluminum side of the tape.
7. Apply maximum heat to the "sandwich", wait for the solder to melt, move the iron across the width of the strip. The solder may ooze out the sides a bit, then should get sucked back in as it adheres to the aluminum. Takes more heat and time then normal to accomplish a good connection. Just keep an eye on the wire casing, when it starts to get soft and/or melt a little, you should be done.
After it cools, check connection with a little tug. Grab a meter and check for continuity between the end of the ground wire and the aluminum side of the tape.
8. Flip the aluminum strip over and peel back a little more of the backing, lay the pre-cut wire to be shielded across the top of the tape pointing in the same direction as the attached ground wire.
9. Roll the tape over the wire to be shielded tightly, being careful not to tear the tape.
10. Continue rolling the tape tightly around the wire until you get close to the other end.
11. Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the aluminum, being sure no aluminum is left exposed,
12. Then heat up the tubing and you're done.
No more breaking and now you can connect the ground wire to any convenient grounding without fear of shorting or breaking.
My new favorite shielded wire for pedals
1978 Gibson Les Paul Standard, Cherry Sunburst, Nickel Tone Zone & Air Norton Pickups, Sweet 16 wiring
It sounds like you are damaging the shield when you strip the outer insulation. Your stripper shouldn't actually touch the shield wires ideally, you just need to cut the surface of the insulation, and you can bend the wire and the insulation will sorta break along the cut revealing the in tact shield.
You can simply strip off as much as you want to get the desired length of leftover shield. If you twist up the exposed shield, don't tin it except for the tip, and cover it with heatshrink, it is as durable and flexible and insulated like a normal wire.
The disdain for stranded wire, I can't help with lol
I've been buying the small shielded wire Hoffman Amps sells and it's the best. It's relatively easy to work with and small. All of Doug's wire is the bomb in fact. I've been using his vintage fender wire for all my amp projects and his Teflon coated 24 gauge is great for pedal stuff. I also like Tube Depot for wire. Just saying! -Brett